Rachel Roddy's recipe for braised chicken with pesto | Food (2024)

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Chicken with pesto {{heading}} FAQs

A kitchen in Rome

The rediscovery of a dusty old cookery classic unearths this ‘super-unbeatable’ Ligurian recipe for braised chicken with homemade pesto

Rachel Roddy

@racheleats

Mon 5 Oct 2020 11.00 BST

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In 1969, Vittorio Avanzini founded a publishing house called Newton Compton Editori in Rome. His mission was to make knowledge accessible to many by combining entertainment and culture, with quality and fair prices. Prolific in the 1970s and 80s, Newton & Compton was “famous” for its paperbacks and large pocketbook editions, as well as a series of bestselling thrillers called Superinsuperabili, or super-unbeatable. Most interesting, though – and why I’m writing this today – is its ongoing series Tradizioni Italiane, which brings together “art, architecture, folklore, proverbs and idioms, culinary tradition, and history in a splendid, low-priced necklace”. In the early 90s, as part of Tradizioni Italiane, Newton Compton Editori commissioned a series of regional cookbooks, each written by a local expert. The result was 27 fat volumes (Lazio, Tuscany, Campania, Emilia Romagna, Liguria and Piemonte each having two volumes) published between 1996 and 2003.

That period of publishing held a mirror up against a huge change for the whole of Italy; that is, the three-year transition period from January 1999 to 28 February 2002, when the Italian lira was phased out and the euro adopted. The transition meant a change for the project, which became a collaboration with a national newspaper that helped distribute the book, but which was also disruptive: the early books are priced in lira, the later ones in euros. Despite what must have been a tremulous period, the series was a successful, brilliant and detailed catalogue of Italian regional cooking, documenting its staggering breadth, diversity, common threads, and goodness.

La Cucina Ligure was the second of the series, published in 1996 when it cost 30,000 lira. It is a different quality from the later books, the pages thicker and smoother, and it’s filled with the most glorious Ligurian recipes, or, as a friend from Genoa remarked, “verdant food”. This week’s recipe, on page 214, is for Pollo alla moda del Tigullio (Tigullio being a traditional region and a gulf in the metropolitan city of Genova, and taking its name from an ancient Ligurian tribe). I am translating the recipe as braised chicken with pesto, though my son calls it “green pollo”.

As you can imagine, La Cucina Ligure is extremely specific about how to make the greenest and best-pounded sauce, pesto alla Genovese. That is, rigorously in a mortar, using tender, small-leaved local basil, rich but delicate Ligurian oil and Sardinian pecorino. The recipe is also mildly accommodating for those of us who can’t find those ingredients and who love a food processor; it is less specific about cooking the chicken, so I improvised.

The recipe suggests that you let the dish sit for up to two hours, then serve it at room temperature. I like it after about 20 minutes, so no longer hot, but still warm enough that the scent of the basil is wide awake and swirling around in its Superinsuperabili way. It is a splendid dish.

Chicken with pesto

Serves 4

1 chicken (about 1.6 kg), cut into 12 pieces
200g flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp olive oil
200ml
white wine
200ml warm salted water
1 garlic clove
, peeled
1 pinch salt
1 heaped tbsp pine nuts
45 basil leaves

30g pecorino, grated
30g parmesan, grated
6-8 tbsp olive oil

Toss the chicken pieces in seasoned flour. In a large frying pan, warm the butter and olive oil, then brown the chicken, starting skin side down, until nicely coloured on all sides.

Add the wine to the pan, leave to sizzle, then turn down the heat, add the water and leave to bubble for 40-50 minutes, turning the chicken pieces regularly.

Meanwhile, make the pesto. If you are working with a pestle and mortar, start with the garlic and salt, then add the pine nuts and basil and, once they are reduced to a cream, stir in the oil and cheese. If you are working in a food processor, blitz the garlic, salt, pine nuts, basil and oil and, once the mix is a consistency you like, stir in the cheese.

Once the chicken is tender, with just a little sauce left in the pan, lift it out on to a serving plate. Spoon over the pesto, toss gently and leave to sit for 15-20 minutes (and up to two hours) before serving.

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  • A kitchen in Rome
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Rachel Roddy's recipe for braised chicken with pesto | Food (2024)

FAQs

How long does it take to braise chicken? ›

Braise for about 40 minutes, or until your meat thermometer says the thighs are done—look for a reading of 165°F. If you are a chicken skin lover, double the chicken stock and leave the lid off. This will help the skin stay crispy while cooking.

What does it mean to braise a chicken? ›

We've all heard the term “braise” before, but what the heck does it actually mean? It's actually a combination of cooking techniques whereby you lightly fry your meat before letting it cook, or “stew” in some kind of liquid (generally wine), in a covered dish until fully cooked.

How to make pesto Rachael Ray? ›

Add nuts, garlic, zest of 1 lemon and salt to a food processor and pulse into a fairly smooth paste. Add cheese to nut paste and add about 3 tablespoons EVOO; process until smooth. Pulse process basil into sauce until fairly smooth, adding juice of 1 lemon and remaining EVOO.

How do you make jarred pesto better? ›

Elevate with a little extra garlic

When you feel like your jarred pesto is missing robustness, don't hesitate to add some minced garlic into the mix. There's likely some garlic already in the jar, and minced or grated garlic is often the same size as the little Parmesan pieces (so it combines quite easily).

Do you braise with the lid on or off? ›

Keep the lid on when braising meat, as it needs moist heat over a long period of time to break down the collagen and connective tissues for fork-tender results. "Pot covered, the ingredient you are braising gets continuously bathed in these steaming and simmering liquids, which the item flavors in turn," says Welsh.

Should I brown chicken before braising? ›

It's always best to brown the meat before braising as this makes the meat look more attractive and adds extra flavor, although some say that the meat tastes sweeter not being browned.

Can you braise chicken too long? ›

The Takeaways. Yes, you can undercook and overcook a braise.

What can I use for braising liquid? ›

The possibilities are just about endless, from seasoning lentils to flavoring soup. You could even make an argument for drinking it straight up—we don't judge. So please, don't throw the remains from your braise away, but instead learn all the many ways you can reap the benefits from upcycling the leftover liquid.

Do you braise with broth or stock? ›

Stocks are best used in braises, sauces and stews. Broth is primarily made from meat that has been simmered for a shorter amount of time, typically two hours or less, and has been seasoned with salt.

Can you add pesto straight from the jar? ›

Yes, pesto can be used straight from the jar and doesn't require cooking or heating. In fact, we actively discourage applying too much heat to pesto, as this will destroy many of the fresh flavours that producers work so hard to retain.

Why is my pesto bad? ›

If it's gone bad, then it will have a sour, almost chemical smell. This is because the olive oil and nuts have gone rancid. So, give it a good sniff, before you decide to use it to avoid any problems. If it doesn't smell good, then don't use it.

Is homemade pesto worth it? ›

Both homemade and shop-bought pesto sauces have their advantages. If convenience is your top priority, then store-bought pesto is right for you, but if freshness is your main concern, then nothing can compete with making pesto yourself.

Why does my pesto taste bad? ›

The most common reason for pesto tasting bitter is that the olive oil is past its best and has started to turn rancid. If the pesto has been made in a food processor or blender, there's also the possibility that it has turned bitter from the crude, sheering action of the blades.

What pasta is best for pesto? ›

Pesto Sauce

This fresh and fragrant pasta sauce is served uncooked, so choose a pasta shape that won't overwhelm it. Similar to oil-based sauces, pesto is served best with longer cuts of pasta, like the corkscrew shape of Fusilli. Pesto works best with Bucatini, Capellini, thinner Spaghettini, and Fettuccine.

How long does it take to braise? ›

It will take about 1 1/2 to 3 hours to become fork-tender. As soon as it's fork-tender, it's done. Cooking any longer will dry out the meat. With braising, just a little effort yields amazing results.

Is braising faster than slow cooking? ›

Braising requires a longer time at a lower temperature than slow roasting, as it works to break down connective tissue and meld the flavors of the added ingredients. Slow roasting uses slightly higher temperatures and shorter cooking times, as its primary focus is on retaining the meat's natural juices.

What does braise for 2 hours mean? ›

Braise (BRAYZ), taken from the 18th-century French word meaning coal, is a cooking method by which food, usually meats or vegetables, is browned in fat, then cooked, tightly covered, in a small amount of liquid at low heat for several hours.

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