[TMP] "Do you paint your bases before textures/flocking?" Topic (2024)

I always flocked my bases for my 15mm armies, usually by using some sort of PVA or tacky glue, then dipping in a bowl of flock. I am thinking of taking it up a notch and using products like Vallejo muds or other textured pastes to "paint" the base, then maybe add a bit of regular flock on top of that.

I almost always am using cream-colored Litko bases or similar, which are very light in color. What I have always wondered about, whether flocking alone or moving to textured paste plus flocking, is whether to paint the base a green or brown to make sure no area of this light color shows through. Do people do this? Does it affect the adhesion of anything at all, and would you paint before or after glueing figures to the stands?

I used to.

I have gone to clear acrylic bases (rectangular, square, and hex), eliminating the need to do anything to them.

Thus, wherever the man/unit stands, it's base always "matches" the terrain beneath it.

Works for me!

TVAG

I base 25/28mm figures only, the figure basses are significantly thick. I glue down the figures, paint the bases a brown colour, then add a millimetre or so of air-drying clay. This is painted again with the same brown colour before sand and flock are glued to it with PVA.

The first paint coat helps to prevent the bases warping as they absorb moisture from the clay.

I paint a mix of cheap paint and white glue on the top of a base, then dip in flock. (Paint is brown, reddish-brown, green or black depending on flock.) Base edge follows, matching anticipated board/mat.

Inevitably, this means sometimes urban-based Imperial Storm Troopers or Mega-City Judges fight grass-based Ewoks or Sand-based Jawas or Green Martians. I'm thinking my best solution is some sort of army-level morale penalty--probably a higher break point--for forces so clearly outside of their usual environment.

PVA Glue brushed onto MDF/plywood bases, swirl them in colored sand mixtures, and done. No muss, no fuss. Fast, efficient, decent appearance.

Glue applied to paint, forms a weak bond. Glue to MDF/plywood, forms a strong bond. Cheers!

Bobgnar, I used 2-part epoxy for metal figures on clear acrylic plastic bases. Strong bond!

I often painted their molded base black, to appear as a shadow, diminishing it's visual impact. Cheers!

I stopped painting my bases when I started using a one-step mixture of PVA glue, dark brown acrylic paint, potting soil, and water, inspired by Mateus.

I apply the mixture, place bushes and tufts, sprinkle on some dirt-colored sand, then dip the base in a grass mixture, and set it aside to dry.

- Ix

Paint first, then flock, regardless of scale.

I am moving toward transparent bases, but I am too lazy and not dextrous enough to cut away the bases that are molded with the miniature and glue just the feet to the transparent base.

So I'll still be painting those bases, but I have been trying a generic color scheme of dark grays and browns to see if the miniatures will look OK regardless of table. I'm not flocking those.

Bobgnar!

Can't speak or any other folks who use--or are considering using--clear acrylic bases, but I don't do anything to the cast base of the figure.

That is, I don't go to special lengths to remove it, though I have cut some down a bit.

However, I do paint the base a dark gray color to give a sort of "shadow at noon" look to the figures. Obviously, bare metal is right out, but a sort of neutral, unobtrusive color allows the figure(s) to be the focus of the eye, rather than the base.

Of course, the smaller the cast base the better, and cutting some of an oversized base is helpful, but between the terrain on the table, and the uniform/costume of the figure, the cast base issue doesn't seem to be a problem.

Cheers!

TVAG

On my bases, I usually apply some acrylic spackle mixed with brown & black inks. This results in a brownish grey soil-looking compound that covers the metal bases so the figures appear to be standing on the ground. Of course, this hardens and gives the figures even more stability. Sometimes I paint this but if the earth tone of the spackle is about right for the area of conflict, I don't need to paint. The bottom of the base is sheet magnet so no paint there.

Cheers!

Gallo

I use Vallejo texture paste first then once dry flock/grass tufts. For 15mm or smaller I just stick the figures in the wet paste and for 28mm I glue the figure on first then spread the paste. I tend to highlight the paste with a drybrush to get some depth to it.

I use clear bases for ships. Looking to try them for 28mm Old West. I have 3d printed figures so no worries about an extra molded base.

For clear bases, I suggest a matte clear coat to dull the reflection/shine. I found their reflective surface to be a really bad distraction, completely ruining the purpose of using a clear base! This issue varies with the lighting in use within the game room.

By spraying a matte clear coat, the clear acrylic bases become translucent, showing the underlying terrain, without the glare effect, no matter the lighting source or its position relative to the figure bases. I found it quite effective. Cheers!